Work support for shoe sewing machines



March 6, 1934. w. J. KELLY WORK SUPPORT FOR SHOE SEWING MACHINES 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 19. 1926 VENTOR ATTORNEY March 6, 1934. w. J. KELLY WORK SUPPORT FOR SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed March 19, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 6, 1934 Y UNITED STATES-- WORK SUPPORT FOR SHOE SEWING MACHINES William J. Kelly,'Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application March 19,

13 Claims.

ously to the presentation to said thread lasting mechanism, such assemblage of the upper and the insole relatively to the last being hereinafter set forth and providing, first, for an outward turning of the upper margin with respect to the 15 last, and second, for the temporary attachment of the insole at its middle portion only to the last, with the insole exceeding in width the face of the last, and with the outwardly turned up per margin and the insole margin in lapping re- 'lation to each other and with such lapping margins of the upper and the insole beyond the cor ners of the last, whereby there results an angle intermediate the upper and the upper margin,

insole is yieldable relatively to the last so that the insole margin is displaceable to a limited ex tent with respect to the last. i

In conjunction with the table, it is preferred to use a presser foot equipped with 'a rolle'r shoe the upper and the insole, to enter the angle formed by the upper and the out turned margin of said upper; and in the operations of thread lasting the upper with the insole, the last im of the table is shifted at the will of the operator so that the roller shoe applies pressure to the upper for'lasting the same concurrently with the stitching operation, whereby the upper is laid smoothly and uniformly relatively to the last and the corners thereof; By moving the movable portion of the table to different operative positions relatively to the stitch forming mechanism, the last, upper and insole are under the control of the workman, with the result that the upper may be lasted in close contact with, or under, the corners of the last, the insole margin being displaceab le to a limited extent to provide for such close thread lasting of the upper with reference to the corners of the last, and as 'a' net result. the operations are, or may be, performed With increased efiiciency, and at a material saving of time and labor, and'produce good quality shoes.

One part of the invention consists of a-last supporting member, usually in the form Of a and, further, the free unattached margin of the adapted, on the presentation of the last carrying posed on or in contact with the'movableportion' 1926, Serial N0.'95,853

table of small dimensions and having a fixed portion and an adjustable portion, upon which the last is adapted to rest, said adjustable portion being shiftable at the will of the operator to various angular positions relative to a horizontal plane, whereby a last as it is manipulated by the operator, may while resting on the member, be turned to present its corners more or less'to the plane of the stitch forming mechanism with a View to stitching the'upper and the sole as far as practicable beneath, and as close as may be, to said corner of the last.

Another feature of the invention is a novel form of presser foot adapted to be carried 'by an element of the stitch-forming mechanismyusually a reciprocating bar, said presser foot being equipped with an upper-tucking member in the form'of a shoe, usually a roller, which is presented in co-operative relation tothe'la-st-supporting table, whereby the tucking member acts upon the marginal portion of an upper for applying pressure thereto in a direction to force the upper to a position as close as practicableto the edge of a last resting uponthe table.

' Other functions and advantages of the invention. will appear from the following description taken in connection with the drawings, wherein- Figure 1 is an elevation of so much of a stitch fQIming machine as is necessary for an understanding of my invention, the shiftable last table portion being inclined and the last being shown in enlarged cross section.

Figure 2 is a view similar to Figure 1 with theparts on a somewhat larger scale and showing. the shiftable last-supporting table portion shifte'd'into a different angular relation to the stitch forming mechanism.

Figure 3 is'a detail view of one form of a presser foot.

1 Figure 4 is a view showing the last and the upper" inside elevation and illustrating the presser foot with a'tucking member for acting on the free unattached-marginal portion of the upper.

Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8 are cross sectional views through the last and the upper showing the different stages in the production of a'shoe.

A is the shiftable or adjustable last-supporting table portion, and B is a presser-foot with a tucking shoe C, constructed as hereafter described,'whereby the upper may be lasted and stitched in exceedingly close relation to the edge of a last, as shown in the several figures of the drawings.

The table is provided at a side portion thereof with a f xed angular portion a, and it is provided, also, with an opening, d, for the passage of an awl, D, and a needle, E, the same being the usual elements of an ordinary stitch-forming mechanism for sewing shoes, and, hence, do not require a detailed description. The angular portion a is fixed to the post F, later to be described. Said table portion A is of small dimensions, and it is mounted adjacent the plane of the stitchforming mechanism for free movement, such table portion being shifted as desired by the workman to assume different inclined positions relatively to the stitch-forming mechanism. As shown, the table portion A is hung by pivoting it at e to the upper portion 1 of a beveled ended post F, said beveled end 1 of the post forming a seat upon which the pivoted table portion A may rest when it is in an out-of-service position. The post is supported fixedly in position in a desired manner on a suitable part of the machine frame; as shown, the post is recessed at f for engagement with a frame-part f and is attached fixedly thereto by a binding screw 1 see Figures 1 and 2.

Means operable at will by the workman are provided for shifting the last supporting table portion A to different angular positions'in an easy manner and by either the hand or foot of the workman. As shown, a vertical spindle G is fitted to a vertical passage or bore provided in the post, the upper end of said spindle being in contact with the under face of the table portion A at a point one side of the pivot e. The spindle passes downwardly through and below the post, being retained in a guide 9' near the lower end. Intermediate its ends, the spindle is provided with a stud, h, in the path of a hand lever, H, pivoted at h, and provided with a latch, i, positioned for locking engagement with a quadrant i. The latch may be released, and the lever raised or lowered, by hand, for moving the spindle G vertically, and said spindle applies pressure to the pivoted table portion A for turning the latter on the axis afforded by the pivot, whereby the angle of inclination of the table portion A relatively to the planeof the stitchforming mechanism may be changed as required or deemed necessary by the workman.

The spindle is reciprocable verticallyv by power, a treadle ;i being provided on a treadle lever J, hung at 7" intermediate its ends on the machine frame. This treadle lever is linked at k to another lever K, hung at k, and said lever extends below the spindle G for the latter to rest thereon, see Figure '1.- The treadle may be pressed lever H or the foot treadle J to normal positions, but for effecting a quick and positive return of it is adapted for carrying the roller shoe C, and for presenting said shoe in a position close to the edge of the last, indicated at L. The presser-foot is offset at m, and provided at its free end with a journal in for the roller shoe C, the latter being mounted for idle rotation on said journal.

The roller is shown in Figure 3 as having a beveled periphery c, and it is supported for rotation in a foot substantially horizontal plane, or in an approximately inclined plane, for the thin narrow edge to rotate close to the edge of the last L, the axis of rotation being slightly inclined as shown.

The form of the roller and the mounting therefor may, obviously, be modified. Thus in Figures 1, 2 and 4, the roller is mounted for rotation in a vertical plane, or substantially so, being free to turn on a journal which is substantially horizontal. In lieu of a smooth edge, asin Figure 3, the roller of Figure 4 is roughened or corrugated by the provision of ribs on a beveled face, thus producing a toothed peripheral edge on the roller, to adapt it for a desired frictional engagement with the upper in order to force it advantageously into contact with the corner or edge of the last, or substantially below said edge.

In following the procedure involved in my invention by the aid of the shiftable or adjustable table portion A and the roller presser foot, an upper, as O, is drawn over the last L, in the usual manner, and by anypreferred mechanical appliance, as depicted in Figure 5. The marginal portions, 0, of the upper are drawn or pulled practically to the edges or'corners, p, of the last, and fastened by lasting tacks, P, which in contradistinction to the usual mode of driving into the bottom of the last, are driven through'the upper into the side of the last, as close as may be to the corners, 20, thereof, see Figure 5,'the edges, 0, of the upper being turned outward as in the process of making stitch-down shoes. An insole, Q, is applied to the bottom of the last and fastened by one or more centrally-arranged tacks, q, see Figure 6, the edges, 0, of the upper being turned outward and lapping the protruding margins of said insole. The lasted upper is now placed upon the table, A, with the insole, Q, in contact with the top surface of the table portion A, and the table portion A and last are shiftedinto an inclined position to present a corner portion of the last into position for engagement with the shoe or roller 0 of the presser foot. The last is thus supported by the table portion A, and the last and upper are moved or advanced by the hands of=the workman so as to present the upper to the stitchforming mechanism. The roller presses the upper, at the angle between the out-turned margin and the part in contact with the last, for engagement with the shoe 0, the sharp corner or edge of which acts on' the upper material to crowd it, practically, below the corner of the last, and thus the seam, s, is sewn to pass through the upper and the insole at an angle, and asclose as possible to the corner, p, of the last, see'Figure 7. The roller tucks-the leather almost, if not quite, below :the

corner of the last, which operation is facilitated by resting the last upon'the inclined table, the

' angle of inclination of which may be varied by the operator as deemed expedient. Thereafter, the last is withdrawn and the outsole, R, sewed to-the insole and upper, as in Figure 8.

As will be noted from Figures 1, 2, 4 and 5, of the drawings taken in connection with the preceding description, my invention of a thread lasting mechanism is useful particularly in the manufacture of shoes of that kind 'known as stitch down shoes, wherein the margins o of the upper are turned outwardly with respect to the last at the corners p of said last, and an insole Q is used, the width of said insole exceeding the face of the last, with the margins of the insole and the margin 0 of the upper in contacting or lapping relation (Figures 6 and 7) at the corners p of said last, and with the insole fastened at its middle portion only to the last, as by the subvided at its forward part with an upper tucking stantially central lasting tacks q (Figures 6 and '7), leaving the insole margins free and unattached to the last, whereby the insole margin is displaceable, at least to a limited extent, with reference to the corners of said last.

My invention enables the workman to determine the lines of the lasting operation and the stitching of upper and insole in any required position relativelyto the last corners, either under the corners, or even or flush with said corners. According to the existing methods of lasting and sewing in the production of stitch down shoes,

the workman utilizes the edge of the last as a guide, and should the upper be supplied with a toe-tip or with a box-toe, the excess material due to said tip or toe causes the lasting lines to be wider or fuller than the remainder of the upper, producing a shoe lacking in shape or contour. The table with its movable portion and the presser foot co-operate in my invention so that the workman is enabled to overcome such objections, for

7 having the required shape.

The movable portion of the table is adapted to be raised or lowered to meet the requirements of the operator in the presentation of the last and upper'to the stitch forming mechanism, and thus the roller shoe of the presser foot is adapted for entry into the angle existing between the upper and its out turned margin, thus laying the upper smoothly on the last and applying pressure to the upper at the angular portion thereof, for pressing the upper close against, or beneath, the last corners, the insole margin being free and displaceable by the action of the presser foot, whereby the lasting operation is performed concurrently with the stitch forming operation in stitching the upper and the insole. The position of the movable portion of the table with reference to the stitch-forming mechanism can be changed at the will of theoperator during the progress of the thread lasting operation, and by lowering the movable portion of the table while the last rests thereon, the roller shoe of the presser foot is adapted to so act on the upper as to force the angular part of said upper under the corners of the last, and while in such positions, the stitch is produced to join the upper and insole at a single operation, with the upper drawn tight around, and laid smoothly upon, the last.

In the foregoing description reference is made to the stitch-forming mechanism as the means for uniting the upper and the insole. While it is desirable to use my improvements in coactive relation to the stitching means, I would have it understood that I may last the upper and insole with the aid of the table and of the presser foot independently of, and without resorting to the use of, the stitching mechanism, in which event the upper margin and the insole may be united by an adhesive as now known to the art.

Having thus fully described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Means for thread lasting shoes including a last-supporting movable table portion, stitchforming mechanism including a presser foot proshiftable at will a last and an upper adapted to be presented in inclined relation to the stitchforming mechanism.

2. Means for thread lasting shoes embodying a last-supporting movable table portion pro-vided with a substantially smooth upper surface upon which is adapted to be imposed a last and an upper, stitch-forming mechanism including a presser foot provided with a tucking roller positioned for engagement with an upper at a corner portion of the last, and means operable at will for moving said table portion to change its angular position relatively to the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. Means for thread lasting shoes embodying a last-supporting movable table portion provided with a substantially smooth upper surface upon which may be imposed a last and upper which are movable freely and at will relatively to said table, stitch-forming mechanism including a presser foot provided with a tucking roller positioned for contact with the upper substantially at a corner portion of the last, said table portion being pivoted adjacent said stitch-forming mechanism for movement to difierent positions inclined to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means opa last supporting movable table portion provided H with a substantially smooth top surface upon which a last and upper may be imposed for free movement relatively to said table portion, stitchforming mechanism including a presser foot provided with an upper tucking roller having a relatively thin edge presented for contact with an upper substantially at the corner of said last, said table portion being pivoted for movement relatively to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means operable at will for imparting movement tosaid table portion whereby the angular position of the table may be changed at will.

5. In a thread lasting mechanism, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a table portion pivoted for movement freely with respect to said stitch-forming mechanism, and a controlling member against which said table portion rests by gravity, means whereby said controlling member may be vertically adjusted for changing the position of said table portion relatively to the stitch-forming mechanism during the progress of the thread lasting operation.

6. Thread lasting mechanism embodying a table portion pivoted adjacent to a stitch-forming mechanism, said table portion being movable at will for presenting an upper and a last in different angular positions with respect to said stitchforming mechanism, and a presser foot in co-operative relation to said pivoted table portion, said presser foot having a roller member adapted for entry into an angular portion of an upper on said last adapted to be imposed on said table portion, whereby the operator may determine the lines of lasting the upper and the upper margin may be laid in close relation to and under the corners of the last in the performance at one operation of lasting said upper and of stitching the upper to an insole. I

7. In a device of the character described, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a table portion pivoted for movement freely with respect to said stitch-forming mechanism, a controlling member against which said table portion rests by gravity, and means whereby said controlling member may be vertically adjusted for changing the position of said table portion relative to the stitch-forming mechanism during the operation of the device.

8. A device of the character described, comprising a table portion hinged adjacent a stitchforming mechanism, a vertical spindle against which said table portion rests by gravity, and means for moving said spindle for changing the position of said table portion relative to the stitchforming mechanism during the operation of the device.

9. In a device of the character described, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism, of an elongated upright, a table associated therewith and having a fixed portion and a movable portion, said movable portion being adapted for movement freely with respect to said stitching mechanism, and a controlling member carried by said upright against which said movable portion rests by gravity, said controlling member being operable in a vertical direction to change the position of said movable portion relative to the stitch forming mechanism. 7

10. A device of the character described, including an elongated upright, a table associated therewith and having a fixed portion and a movable portion, said movable portion being hinged to said elongated upright adjacent a stitch forming mechanism, a vertically movable spindle 00- operating with said movable portion to change the position thereof relative to the stitch forming mechanism, means for guiding the spindle in its vertical movements and means for locking and releasing said spindle.

11. A device of the character described,;including an elongated upright, a table associated therewith and having a fixed portion and a movable portion, said movable portion being hinged to said elongated upright adjacent a stitch forming mechanism, a vertically movablespindle cooperating with said movable portion to change the position thereof relative to the stitch forming mechanism, means for guiding the spindle in its vertical movements, means for locking and releasing said spindle, and spring .means connecting said spindle and said upright to force said spindle in a downward direction.

12. In a device of the character described, th combination with a stitch forming mechanism, of a table having a fixed portion and amovable portion, said movable portion being adapted for movement freely with respect tosaid stitchforming mechanism, a controlling member against which said movable portion rests by gravity, and means whereby said controlling member maybe vertically adjusted for changing the position-of said movable portionrelative to the stitch forming mechanism during the operation of the device. i r Y 13. In a device of the character described, including, in combination, a table having a fixed portion and a movable portion, said movable portion being pivoted adjacent a stitch forming mechanism, a spindle on which said movable portion rests, and means for moving said spindle for changing the position of said movable portion relative to; the stitch forming mechanism during theoperation of the device.

WILLIAM J 

